Scent of Spice, Glare of Neon: Nights in Changsha
Written By Ted Wang
I had the opportunity to visit Changsha lately, and I must say that it completely amazed me. Particularly at night, there's something about this city that just feels different. Waves of people, neon lights blazing in all directions, and the kind of street energy that makes you want to just stop and take it all in were all around me as soon as I entered 五一广场 (Wuyi Square). Everything seemed alive. While others waited in line for refreshments, spoke with friends, or just walked around aimlessly like I did, giant displays filled the sky with slogans and ads.
However, the real highlight for me was 火宫殿 (Huogongdian). This place is basically a foodie's dream come true. It has a lot of history and appears to be a temple from the outside, but as you enter, you'll discover booth after stall of Changsha foods. I sampled hot rice cakes, smelly tofu (which smells worse than it tastes), and a few other foods that I couldn't even remember the names of, so I just pointed and prayed for the best. It was strong and tasty in every bite.
The vintage buildings, the contemporary lighting, the aroma of chile oil, and the people from various walks of life occupying the same area all melded together in a way that I found very appealing. It made me realize that culture is there in the food we eat, the streets we travel, and the places we congregate—it's not simply something we read about or study. And while maintaining its roots, it is continuously evolving.
Changsha felt more unvarnished and unplanned, more lived-in than Beijing, where tradition frequently feels rigid and maintained. Each has its own allure. However, Changsha's blend of street culture and history truly got me to consider how locations express their identities through their visual, olfactory, and gustatory elements.
This journey gave me the opportunity to learn more about the rich and diverse culture of China and to get to know another side of my own nation. And now, I'm likely to think about Changsha if I see a large crowd, smell a spicy scent, or hear the bustle of a bustling night street.